Audemars Piguet
Ref. 5402
A very attractive, well-preserved and rare stainless steel wristwatch with “tropical” dial, date and bracelet
Manufacturer : Audemars Piguet
Year : Circa 1978
Reference No : 5402
Case No : C 1968
Model Name : Royal Oak “Jumbo C Series
Material : Stainless steel
Calibre : Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap : Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle : Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions : 39mm diameter
Signed : Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signedThe Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402 undeniably holds a significant place in horological history, having pioneered the luxury sports watch category when it was created by Gérald Genta. As the first model in the Royal Oak collection, this reference recently celebrated its 50th anniversary and embodies the essence of the entire collection through its rich heritage.
While most Royal Oak Jumbo dials feature the "AP" logo at the 6 o'clock position, this particular dial showcases the logo at 12 o'clock, replacing the hour index. Audemars Piguet restorers explain that over time, certain watch hands can rub against or even collide with the applied logo at 6 o'clock, potentially causing the watch to stop. It is important to note that the distance between the hands and the logo is merely a few hundredths of a millimeter.
To address this issue, Audemars Piguet watchmakers initially bent the hands manually, performing a delicate operation that involved creating two tiny, inverted Z-shaped bends to elevate the hands just enough to avoid contact with the logo or the crystal, and to ensure they did not touch each other. However, to provide a permanent solution, Audemars Piguet decided on February 24, 1977, to relocate the logo to the 12 o'clock position, allowing sufficient space for the movement of the hour hand. Given the variations across the entire reference, it is estimated that only a maximum of 16% have the AP monogram at the 12 o'clock position.
In the world of vintage watches, condition is key. The present example features a well-preserved case that remains sharp to the touch with pleasing proportions. The dial has developed an attractive consistent brown “tropical effect”, and the dark caramel-colored luminescent markers further add to its allure. As each dial ages uniquely, few can match this condition. According to Audemars Piguet, the last C series number is C 1973, making the current example, numbered C 1968, one of the last watches in the C series line.
