De Bethune DB1 DB1R

De Bethune DB1 in Rose Gold Number "001"

DETAILS The DB1 watch has a unique status that is significant to the history of the brand and its heritage, as it is the first reference that started the De Bethune chronicle. Furthermore, this watch is historically important as it bears the number 001, meaning that it is one of the first timepieces to leave the De Bethune workshops. In the early years, the brand had only just begun to develop its own calibers, and the watches launched in 2002 and 2003 were equipped with calibers sourced from suppliers. This also applies to the De Bethune caliber [DB]2002 in this watch. It is based on a rare hand-wound monopusher chronograph movement developed by the THA (Techniques Horlogères Appliqueés) atelier for complicated movements. THA was founded in 1996 by independent watchmaker François-Paul Journe, who was joined by Vianney Halter and Denis Flageollet, also one of the co-founders of De Bethune. The [DB]2002 caliber is actually a version of the 045 MC caliber originally developed by THA for the reissue of the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. It is based on the layout of the early wrist chronographs from the first quarter of the 20th century, whose functions were switched by pressing the crown. This caliber also uses a rare combination of a column wheel control and a clutch with rocking pinion. After being produced by THA, the rights to this caliber were transferred to La Joux-Perret, a former Jaquet-Baume factory, and produced as the LJP5000-4 caliber. In 2007, the Bucherer watch division bought THA. REASONS TO BUY The DB1 is the first reference ever produced by De Bethune. This DB1R watch is therefore a highly desirable acquisition for collectors and connoisseurs of De Bethune watchmaking. It offers the opportunity to acquire an extremely rare, collectible, charismatic and early mechanical timepiece from this famous independent watch brand, undoubtedly one of the market leaders in modern haute horlogerie. The present example dates from the first year of De Bethune’s activity and displays all the stylistic features characteristic of the brand’s early period, including a large, round and slender case with the characteristic ogival lugs and a matt silvered solid gold dial with blued steel “Pomme de Breguet” hands. This example with the proud number 001 on the caseback is the first in the DB1R series and one of the earliest examples of the De Bethune collection to ever leave the manufacture, which makes this rare and sought-after timepiece even more attractive. Case : Polished rose gold case 750/1000 with a solid rose gold caseback, crown at 3 o'clock with integrated chronograph pushers Strap : Black Alligator leather strap, with a original rose gold pin buckle Dial : Engine turned silvered dial, with black Roman numerals, railway minute track, chronograph minutes counter at 3 o'clock & small seconds 9 o'clock, blued Breguet hands, dial signed: "De Bethune Movement : Rhodium-plated hand-wound column-wheel chronograph with blued screws & Geneva stripes Cal : DB2002 Ref : DB1R Case No : 001 D : 42 mm Year : Circa 2002