PATEK PHILIPPE'CHAMELEON' REF. 1252
PATEK PHILIPPE. A POSSIBLY UNIQUE AND EXTREMELY UNUSUAL 18K YELLOW AND PINK GOLD 'CHAMELEON' HINGLED BANGLE BRACELET WATCH WITH PINK DIAL
SIGNED PATEK, PHILIPPE & CO., 'CHAMELEON' MODEL, REF. 1252 MOVEMENT NO. 865'356, CASE NO. 621'691, MANUFACTURED IN 1940
PATEK PHILIPPE. A POSSIBLY UNIQUE AND EXTREMELY UNUSUAL 18K YELLOW AND PINK GOLD 'CHAMELEON' HINGLED BANGLE BRACELET WATCH WITH PINK DIAL
SIGNED PATEK, PHILIPPE & CO., 'CHAMELEON' MODEL, REF. 1252 MOVEMENT NO. 865'356, CASE NO. 621'691, MANUFACTURED IN 1940
Movement: Manual
Dial: Pink
Case: 20 mm. wide
With: Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1940 with Chameleon bracelet in 18k yellow and pink gold, and its subsequent sale on 7 June 1946
Remark: The only known example of reference 1252 in pink and yellow gold, One of three reference 1252 known Christie's is honored and delighted to offer this first and only known reference 1252 'Chameleon' bangle watch made in two-color 18k pink and yellow gold. Including the present watch, only three examples are known publicly, the two other specimens are both made entirely in yellow gold. One of those two watches is now part of the remarkable Patek Philippe Museum Collection (Inv. P-107); the other was sold at Antiquorum Geneva, 15 May 2023, lot 450, sold for 387,500 Swiss Francs. According to our research, the present timepiece is the earliest known examples.
The ‘Chameleon’ is one of Patek Philippe’s most intriguing and memorable creations. It was one of the earliest designs by Gilbert Kervan as he was still a late teenager. The highly unusual and astonishing sculptural hinged bracelet bangle watch is well-preserved and crisp with clear hallmarks, moreover, it was previously unrecorded and is fresh to the auction market. An amazing work of art and wonderful mid-century jewelry creation, it is as wearable on any wrist today as it was almost 80 years ago. The case was made by G. & E.Bonnard of La Fusterie, Geneva (Geneva Key 14). As confirmed by the Extract from the Archives, the present watch was made in 1940 but not sold until 6 years later, on June 7th, 1946, following the end of World War II.
Interestingly, all three known ‘Chameleon’ watches feature dials that bear the ‘long’ version ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’ signature that is usually only seen on watches made post-1948. The present watch features a charming pink silvered dial brushed on 2 angled planes with raised applied gold numerals and markers. It is possibly an early example of a ‘long’ signature dial or was perhaps fitted shortly after being sold in order to better complement the two-tone gold of the bangle.
Reference 1252 'Chameleon'
Introduced during the Second World War in the early 1940s, reference 1252 was one of the most striking and unusual wristwatches that Patek Philippe manufactured. The small, square manual-winding watch is fitted on a hinged bangle bracelet that flexes open to allow for easy wear. The eye-catching and realistically modelled hand-made gold Chameleon wraps its long tail around the full length of the bangle. Reference 1252 was featured in a 1952 Patek Philippe advertisement signed by the photographer E.G. George.
